使勺攀岩难度等级和安全评级:它们是什么,它们是什么意思,为什么他们很重要。
攀岩的成绩是用来描述的难度攀登路线。成绩在攀岩中使用健身房和户外峭壁。在启动路线之前,它可以帮助了解路线的年级,这是由人的共识爬的路线。
成绩可以是一个有用的框架来衡量自己的攀登过程当你获得新的优势,技能和技术。
登山者使用许多不同的评分系统。通常,评分系统是由地理区域和攀岩风格。例如,标准的分级系统被爬在澳大利亚不是同一绳登山者在法国使用的评分系统。
抱石,这是一种攀爬,发生在独立的巨石和较短的岩壁,不需要安全绳,有不同的分级系统比长绳子爬攀岩路线。
登山者也使用保护和安全评级来描述路线和彼此警示危险。
读了崩溃的攀登复杂的难度和安全评级系统。
美国攀爬的成绩和约塞米蒂十进制系统
在美国,我们使用两个主要评分系统评价岩石爬的困难。先说服攀登评分系统,称为约塞米蒂十进制系统(码)。码是由塞拉俱乐部的成员在1950年代北美攀岩在约塞米蒂山谷和其他地区。
码类系统
类1 - 4
有五个码的“类”。类1和2是用于描述地形行走和徒步旅行。类3和4描述陡峭,更多的技术领域,经常接触,需要一些摇滚匆忙和四肢在地上所有的使用安全提升。
认为类1和2是一个走在树林里,和类3和4作为一个技术提高或陡峭的山的山脊。登山者通常指类1到4“第一,第二,第三,第四。”
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类5
类5或第五类,涵盖了技术攀岩。这个是分为部分,目前从5.0到5.15不等。早期的支持者系统添加小数点第五类分解为分钟,增量评级,让登山者描述路线与高精确度的困难。
第五类低,从5.0到5.5,被认为是简单的地形大多数登山者。规模达到5.9后,每个数值年级字母用于进一步细分。5.10年级分为5.10,5.10,5.10度和5.10 d -然后5.11紧随其后。目前,世界上最难攀登路线是评分5.15 d,和只有两个路线当前等级的存在。
作为一个粗略的指南,5.6 - 5.8级范围通常被认为是具备初级攀岩。5.9通过5.10大概是中级,5.11到5.12可以被认为是先进的,5.13及以后很难一直参加专业登山。
码被大多数室内攀岩场在北美和其他地区码者优先。在这些领域,说服任何形式的攀岩、从bolt-protected运动攀登到可移动gear-protected传统攀岩,将额定使用约塞米蒂十进制系统。
路线是分级根据码和包含它的所有不同部分可能出现这样写:飞行的信天翁,5.10摄氏度A4 pg - 13级年级第六。
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码器械攀登系统
码还包括一个器械攀登评级系统,描述了困难和安全水平的路线,可以通过将设备放置在墙上爬,拉着它的路由上取得进展。
器械攀登规模范围从A0到A5。线路额定A0需要简单的器械攀登技术和被认为是相对安全的。线路额定A5需要非常特定的技能和涉及重大的危险。
此外,约塞米蒂十进制系统包括一个可选的罗马数字等级描述整个长度和“承诺水平或严重性的路线。第四等级显示1 - 2小时的攀登,二级显示不到半天,三级显示半天,四年级建议一天,V级建议2 - 3天,等等。
这些罗马数字更相关的大墙攀爬和登山,不经常包括在描述岩石爬。
码保护和安全评级
另一个可选评级表明的质量和间距路线可以保护一个主管的攀岩者。有趣,相关的字母编码不同保护评级是基于美国电影评级系统:
- 旅客:优质、充足的保护
- 答:一般好的保护可怜的几节保护
- pg - 13级:公平的保护,可能会导致长,潜在的危险
- 接待员:松散是指“跳动的地形”,在有限的保护和严重伤害的可能性
- X:没有保护和整体路线是极其危险的。
有点历史方面注意:码的早期,很多登山者认为攀岩超出5.9将不符合人性。皇家罗宾斯爬上首次确认5.9在1952年当他完成打开书Tahquitz岩石,加州。
训练方法和攀爬装置开发了求情几十年,攀登等级上限继续上升。亚当·昂德拉建立了世界上第一个5.15 d,沉默,在2017年。2020年,世界第二路线的困难,Bibliographie,爬上了德国Alex Megos杰出人才。
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抱石和V
V范围是什么?
而码用于年级几乎所有被攀岩路线在美国,抱石利用一个完全不同的系统。像成绩说服攀登路线,抱石的成绩表明的难度博尔德的问题一位登山者以前从未试过。
V规模的“V”简称“害虫”或“害虫”,这是标志性的抱石者约翰·谢尔曼的昵称,创建了V的规模。德克萨斯州谢尔曼花时间抱石在Hueco坦克在1980年代和规模决定应该有一个一致的测量博尔德的困难问题。
后爬指南出版商拒绝出版谢尔曼的指南Hueco坦克除非增加了分级系统,谢尔曼花时间形式化他的规模和等级的石头在他的书中。
V量表评分
博尔德的问题在美国分级使用V规模。码,V规模是完全开放式的,最高等级规模将继续增加随着这项运动的发展。目前,规模开始,上升到。
有时,VB用于描述比V0更容易博得入门级问题。一般来说,VB和V3是初学者级别之间的问题,V3 V6被认为是中间,V7 V10先进,V11和超越是非常困难或精英。V规模通常利用在室内攀岩场。
抱石的成绩报告
博尔德的等级问题考虑整个爬巨石的经验。个人运动从一个坚持下有时会有分数,但所有行动的累积出整个博尔德问题的最终成绩。
例如,博尔德问题10 V5连续移动而不休息可能会评价等级高于V5。这是因为一系列举措的一个给定的级比单一更难以完成移动相同的等级。
V10博尔德的问题可能包括一些简单的举动导致单个V10移动,或者它可能是一个序列的整体行动,需要一个V10努力联系在一起。例如,现有V13博尔德问题被描述为“连续多个v10引擎。“后第一个登山家爬巨石前,建议一定等级,其他登山者过来提供自己的意见,直到最后,有一个共识。
抱石运动成绩通常用于描述单转运动的具体困难或传统的爬。例如,一项运动登山者攀登路线额定5.12可能形容路线的最困难的部分是V3博尔德问题。抱石运动成绩是一个有用的工具登山者的风格来描述短段攀爬的难度。
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攀爬的成绩和共识
因为不同的攀岩者有不同的优势,劣势,身体类型,和技能,攀爬的成绩都是主观的。登山者通常不同意困难或等级的一个给定的路线。如上所述的抱石,登山者困难评级是基于共识。
如果10登山者相信路线是5.10 d,但另一个10登山者相信相同的路线是5.11 b,一致通过,成绩可能在5.11解决中间。在互联网上和指南,路线给出具体的成绩,但这些成绩应该被认为是在不断变化,因为群众的共识可以随时间变化的。
其他评分系统
美国以外的地区。,several other grading systems are commonly used. The French grading scale begins at 1 and currently goes up to 9, utilizing lettered increments in between.攀登等级转换法国规模和码之间的简单明了。大多数说服航线在欧洲和超出使用法国分级系统。
枫丹白露的规模,也起源于法国,被广泛用于年级巨石。它可以很容易转换V规模。
其他的例子包括一个澳大利亚被攀登分级标准,这只是从1 - 39,字迹不利用的增量。英国等级制度被路线——意味着对传统爬特别考虑每个路线的大胆的因素。
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